Lifetime photos
Designer Elie Tahari joins Joanna Coles in the workroom to critique Ivy Higa's work.

"Project Runway All-Stars"
Episode 9: "There's No Business Like Sew Business" recap

This week the designers are challenged with producing a ready-to-wear garment for Elie Tahari, using his fabric, with the extra step of producing a piece within a practical retail price point.

Funds raised from winning garment sales will go toward NYC's Save the Garment Center and its mission is to promote, preserve  and save the city's stature as one of the world's fashion capitals. The movement's website, savethegarmentcenter.org states: In 1960, 95 percent of clothing sold in the U.S. was made in the U.S. Now, that figure is down to just 5 percent. Despite this drastic decline, there are still 846 fashion companies headquartered in New York City which is more than London, Paris, and Milan combined. ... There are 24,000 apparel manufacturing jobs in New York City that make this domestic clothing production possible."

When it comes time to choose fabric, all the designers pick colors or prints except Uli, who chooses white (again).

Hawaii designer Ivy Higa picked a dramatic landscape print, and when Joanna Coles and Elie Tahari enter the workroom for their critique, Elie tells her, "You have a lot of guts," due to her choice.

To showcase the entire print, she changes her beautiful asymmetric design to a simpler maxi dress. Elie suggests cropping the dress to do away with a heavy black block to give her dress a lighter, beachy feel.

Ivy counters that she didn't want to disturb the print while giving women the option of hemming the dress to their liking. Joanna said she doesn't want designers to expect buyers to run out to their tailors, calling it lazy. I have to agree with that. There are so many things I buy with the intention of "fixing" them, but there's never time, so everything stays as is and many times go unworn.Judges would have preferred Ivy's dress in a shorter, beachy length.

To Joshua, whose dress is bordering on tacky and overdone, the designer suggests, "Try to think about what women want to wear," and what they are willing to wear.

His ready-to-wear critiques were very sensible and Tahari, who also co-founded Theory, is known for wearable designs that flatter women.

Later on, the Israel-born designer—who Emilio relates came to New York with nothing and slept in Central Park to survive—said, something like, "When you have to fight for truth, food, love you feel appreciation, and appreciation is everything."

Editors tend to have seen it all and become very jaded but upon hearing this, Joanna goes, "Oh my god, I feel moved." She was so touched and inspired by his thoughts.

In the end, just as Tahari had feared, because of the black color block, Ivy's dress weighed heavy on the bottom when her model was stationary. It flowed nicely when the model walked, but Ivy was sent home. I suspect it had less to do with her dress than the reality that this was her fourth week on the bottom. Her dress was so much better than Joshua's, which was a travesty. His dress had many counts against it, making his model appear to have mono, sagging boobs, while the sides gaped and a roller coaster zipper, with all it's ups and downs, made the models behind look puffy. And the biggest critique, Tahari said his dress looked slutty.

Well, don't cry for Ivy, who immediately went to work for one of this season's guest judges, and continues to get offers.

Anthony Ryan's dress. I liked Uli's better, and as of this writing, she's winning a higher score with viewers using the "Project Runway All-Stars" website's "Rate the Runway" feature, with 5 stars vs. Anthony Ryan's 4. But I suspect we're not getting the full effect of her fabric from photos. Her knit wool is probably hard for many women to wear, too heavy to sell well.

The dress translated for retail, now available at www.elietahari.com as the Liv dress, $398, in sizes 0 to 14. All proceeds from sales will go to Save the Garment Center.

Uli's dress. Judges commented it looks fresh and young. I think they're subconsciously looking at her model as part of the package.

Joshua's dress was a travesty. Elie Tahari said it looked slutty, yet he's still in the game. How unfortunate.

Nadine Kam photos
Models dressed in BLVQ, Matt Bruening's holiday collection.

If the world had ended Dec. 21,  Matt Bruening would have been happy knowing his work over the past few months had been for naught, as he closed the year with the showing of his BLVQ | MB Holiday Collection 2013, at The Republik.

So close to the holidays, I'm sure everyone had a million things to do, but it seems as if the entire fashion community was there to show their support for Matt, whose fashion show was also part of Christa Wittmier's "Last Ever" birthday party and fundraiser for the arts organization POW WOW HAWAI'I.

Luckily, the world didn't end, so it was neither goodbye to friends nor the end of birthdays for the woman about town, but she is saying goodbye to her blogging days while continuing her work with Young's Market Co. of Hawaii, and moving on to other projects.

And for Matt, the world's not ending means we can actually snatch up some of his latest designs with its perfect mix of casual sophistication. His minimalist, go-anywhere pieces can be dressed up or down, whether you're headed to a swanky soiree or just wanna curl up on the couch at home.

Many of the pieces will fit into any existing wardrobe, and I don't know if you can see in my video, but I'm particularly interested in a pair of comfy looking bloomers.

To purchase pieces, contact Matt—who's working out of a Chinatown studio—directly at mb@mattbruening.com

Designer Matt Bruening cuts up with Lindsey Higa, who, with fellow stylists Geremy Campos and Reise Kochi, helped with the show.

Non-flash video link

Nadine Kam photos
Joe Bock gravitated to one of Nemo's pals at L'ill Nell's: Clothes for the Curious Kid, which just opened at The Kahala Hotel & Resort. Read on to find out how to win a $100 gift certificate to the kidwear boutique.

If you've got little ones at home, you might want to check out L’il Nell’s: Clothes for the Curious Kid, an upscale children’s boutique that opened earlier this month at The Kahala Hotel & Resort.

During a tour of the store Dec. 19, the Kahala's general manager Roseann Grippo said they noticed vacationers were leaving the premises to shop for beachwear, resort attire and fashionable play togs. After all, why should adults have all the fun in dressing up in breezy, casual local style?

With that in mind, L’il Nell’s was created, managed by Melissa Rocha, who also manages The Kahala Boutique. With resort buyer Barbara Cipro, they've stocked the store with apparel by a mix of local and national brands, swimwear, pool and bathtub toys, mermaide dolls and other toys, plus age-appropriate and beach-inspired jewelry.

Aloha shirts in miniature from Coradorables.

One of the mainstay brands is local kidswear designer Cora Spearman's Coradorables. Other brands include Juicy Couture Baby, Jannuzzi, Kissy Kissy, Neptune Zoo, Makena Surfwear, Hula Star, Island Heritage, Hurley, Diesel, and Roxy.

L’il Nell’s is open daily from 9 a.m. until 6 p.m., just off the grand main lobby and front desk area, across from The Kahala’s famous Celebrity Wall. For more information, call (808) 739-8709.

To win a weekend stay in a Kahala family suite and a $100 gift certificate at Li’l Nell’s, join The Kahala’s Facebook page at at http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahala-Hotel-Resort/24225416915 and submit a photo and brief description of your greatest Kahala family memory for the resort's "Oh What Fun Favorite Family Photo Moments" contest. If you're too bashful to sign up for Facebook, you also have the option of emailing your entry to marketing@kahalaresort.com. The entry deadline is 5 p.m. Jan. 7, 2013.

Photos of the finalists will be posted for all The Kahala’s Facebook fans to vote for their favorite from Jan. 7 through Jan. 20, 2013. (Voters must “Like” The Kahala Hotel & Resort Facebook page prior to voting.)

The winner will receive a complimentary two-night stay in a family suite (partial ocean view) with breakfast for four at The Kahala Hotel & Resort (subject to availability and black out dates), and a $100 gift certificate for a shopping spree at the newly opened Li’l Nell’s: Clothes for the Curious Kid. The winner will be announced on Jan. 21, 2013 on The Kahala’s Facebook page.

If you don't have photos to back your Kahala memories, there's still time to snap away. For instance, while still in holiday mode and welcoming family and friends from out of town, you might want to get together over afternoon tea at The Veranda. Learn more about the tea service at my other blog, Take a Bite.

The store entry, complete with mini shopping carts for kids.

I wanted one of these hand-embellished, vintage fabric T-shirts for myself. Alas, these are in keiki sizes only.

A penguin backpack.

The Kahala rashguard for little girls, bracketed by resort tunics and tops.

These mermaid dolls are $16 each.

A little play area keeps keiki occupied while parents shop.

There's still time to visit a lobby tree, dressed in candy colors for little ones.

Nadine Kam photos
Quiss DJs Heria, Yuria and Qp will perform at the FLAG-J grand opening party beginning 10 p.m. Dec. 21 at The Ginza, 1240 Kona St., for 21 and older. There will be free giveaways, and a FLAG-J footwear showcase.

The Tokyo-based shoe boutique FLAG-J opened its doors Dec. 20 at Ala Moana Center, on the lower level, mauka side of the mall. To find my way, I just looked for the crowd of well-wishers outside the door, halfway between Lupicia and the post office.

The eye-catching brand, which gained its following in trendy Shibuya, the heart of Tokyo's fashion district, is geared toward fashionable women, 18 to 35, seeking the latest styles at affordable prices. Right now, there are platforms, slippers and sandals on sale in front of the store for $39.99, while regular prices run about $129 for a range of styles, including pretty in pink and pastel kitten heels, low boots, pumps, ballerina flats and platforms. For fall, many of the styles incorporate an ultrasuede-like fabric.

FLAG-J is a trademark of the Akakura Corp., which also has plans to open a higher-end Akakura boutique on Beachwalk Avenue in April 2013.

Company president Futoshi Yamamoto went to great lengths to write down his thoughts in English, and read them to a crowd of media and friends at the grand opening. Later, he told me that he has been visiting Hawaii for more than 30 years, having first set foot in the isles as a teen-ager.

He said he's been told one should only open a business in places one loves, and he said he loves everything about Hawaii, and wants to do his part to help the economy by one day also opening a manufacturing company here to offer jobs to local people.

It may take a while to get accustomed to Japanese sizing however. As a fairly homogeneous culture, where most people are of similar size, their footwear comes in sizes small, medium and large, about 6 to 8 in U.S. sizes. Check it out.

Akakura president Futoshi Yamamoto read from his notes in English. Surrounded by hearts, he said that he learned long ago that one must love the place one chooses to do business, and he has loved Hawaii for many years, which is why he chose to be here.

Yamamoto with  Angela Maki Vernon, left, and Miss Hawaii Bo Tanaka, in FLAG-J footwear.

Some serious platforms.

Kick up your heels in red for the holidays.

Casual footwear.

Woven plus animal patterns.

FLAG-J manager Risako Moribe in her knee-high Flag-J boots.

A toast to Ala Moana Center's newest addition.

At the opening, there was some fabulous food from Taormina restaurant including this seared ahi; grilled calamari and shrimp; and salmon, caper and onion risotto.

Also yum, Taormina's salmon with shrimp and avocado bruschetta. We left with desserts from Shirokiya's Kulu Kulu Cake.

The decor is so girly and pretty, and you'll be fitted for shoes on heart-shaped ottomans, below.

A view from the entrance, where it looks like you're entering a tunnel of love.

Lifetime photos
Ivy Higa went up directly against Anthony Ryan Auld in this week's face-off.

"Project Runway All-Stars"
Episode 8: "Flapper Fashion Face-off" recap

This week's episode opened with the designer's discussing Casanova's departure last week. He and Hawaii's Ivy Higa were friends after appearing on Season 8 together, so his departure hit her hard, perhaps moreso because they were in the bottom 2 together, so it was a "he or I" scenario.

In a situation where you're basically on your own against some cutthroat competitors, it was probably nice for her to know there was someone in the room who had her back. They were always helping each other, whether with extra materials or having an extra pair of hands to finish a garment. Both are fast workers who could always lend a hand when the other seemed pressed for time.

Any student of fashion should be watching and noting that every setback seems to make Ivy more determined to succeed, and that's what it takes to keep going in New York, where, even if I'm just working Fashion Week there—a week—I come home exhausted. I'm not psychic in any way, but I am sensitive to what's in the air, and during fashion week I feel an overwhelming clawing, desperate vibe from those trying to make it, and it feels like a suffocating, energy-zapping blanket. Yuck!

So this week marked another first. It seemed straightforward enough when host Carolyn Murphy announced the challenge of reinterpreting 1920s Jazz Age fashion for the modern woman. The designers were then asked to draw cards which had them matched with another designer. At that point, one would assume a team challenge, but this time it meant the two designers would face-off against one another, with the winner making the top three, and the other the bottom three.

So Emilio Sosa  was pitted against Joshua McKinley in the creation of an "Afternoon Garden Party" ensemble, Uli Herzner would challenge Laura Kathleen for a design befitting a "Social Soiree," and Ivy vied with Anthony Ryan Auld with an "After Hours Speakeasy" theme. The two don't seem to have much affection for one another, and Anthony Ryan seemed to confirm this when he said something along the lines of, "I'm not pest control but I don't mind exterminating Ivy."

There's nothing like a one-on-one competition to bring out the claws, with Laura Kathleen saying of Uli, "She's more like a stylist who tacks things on to make things look better." Meow.

The one-upmanship kept going when Joanna Coles came in for her critiques, asking the designers to size up each others' work.Emilio said "My lady owns the estate, Josh's lady is a guest."

She also asked Anthony Ryan and Ivy to rate each other's work. Anthony Ryan offered a 7 or 8 on a scale of 1 to 10. Ivy rated his dress a 5, saying, "I happen to think his dress looks like curtains from the 1920s instead of a dress from the 1920s."

Ivy's Art Deco-inspired design.

Her own dress was inspired by the geometry of Art Deco, and she chose an expensive fabric, with, I believe, sequined stripes that she wanted to use to create a chevron pattern. Joanna is positive in telling Ivy her design, "Feels very 1920s. It's very Roxy Hart from "Chicago."

Observing Ivy working, Uli said she's making her life more difficult by cutting a beautiful fabric into many pieces that will be hard to put together. By day's end, it appears Uli might be correct. For a second time, Ivy leaves the workroom without much to put on her model. Her fabric is still in pieces and there's only two hours to show time the next day

After judging, Joshua, Laura Kathleen and Ivy end up on the bottom. It doesn't help that Ivy has a model who doesn't walk dynamically and has a tendency to slouch or stand sloppily. A model with better posture would have showed her dress to far better advantage.

Anthony Ryan's design. Love the cape, not the dress.

I was so sure Anthony Ryan was going to be on the bottom. His dress was very plain, and while the judges said it looked very modern, it was a shapeless babydoll that was so boring he had to dress it up with a feathered capelet. Well, who can resist a feathered capelet? I just bought one from Sass & Bide.

I was doubly shocked when he was named the winner, but at that point the judges seemed to have no choice. Emilio's dress was beautiful, but didn't have much of a 1920s factor. Judges deemed it closer to the 1930s or '40s. Uli seemed to repeat herself in layering on fringe and other frills. The judges were down on repetition this week.

After that, Joshua was saved for another plain dress that I can find any day in any junior store. I don't know why he's still in the competition.

That meant Ivy and Laura Kathleen were the bottom two, but I had a feeling Ivy was going to be saved because Laura Kathleen had sent jumpsuits and pantsuits down the runway one too many times, and guest judge, actress Gretchen Moll really seemed to work hard to sway the other judges into seeing the work and thought process that went into Ivy's dress, which Georgina Chapman said looked familiar because it was Prada-esque.

So once again, Ivy was spared hearing the dreaded, "You're out." Prada-esque is far better than being Forever 21-esque, which is how Anthony Ryan's dress appeared. Maybe his fabric looked better in the studio than over television.

We're now down to five designers and Ivy needs to do something amazing next week to stay in the game. She's been on the bottom three weeks in a row now, and nobody would survive a fourth week in bottom two. Though at this point, Joshua is the weakest link, unless he can buy some taste.

In the face-off between Uli, right, and Laura Kathleen, Uli won for her fringed flapper dress.

Emilio, left, was the winner in his face-off against Joshua.