By Nadine Kam
Nadine Kam photos
Trouser fabric samples from Salvatore Ambrosi of Ambrosi Napoli, at Leather Soul Downtown.
Leather Soul Downtown teamed up with Hong Kong haberdashery The Armoury to bring bespoke tailoring by Orazio Luciano of Naples, Italy, to Honolulu on April 2 for an exclusive made-to-measure event, also featuring third-generation trouser specialist Salvatore Ambrosi of Ambrosi Napoli.
The clothiers were in Honolulu to introduce fine Neapolitan tailoring, noted for unpadded construction and lines that make them lighter to wear than their English and American counterparts, according to Leather Soul owner Tom Park.
The Armoury partners Ethan Newton and Alan See were on hand, with Newton performing fittings that took about an hour, not because it takes that long be measured, but because it generally takes clients that long to pick their fabric.Made-to-measure jackets start at $3,100, trousers at $700, and at those prices, no one wants to change their mind later.
As one client, Reid Takamoto said, he'll be watching what he's eating from now on, lest he outgrow his pants. Newton said it's never a good idea to get into the habit of adding some "give" to the waistband. Not only is the object of bespoke tailoring about the perfect fit, but if you give yourself room to expand, you will.
One of Leather Soul's clients meets with, from left, Ethan Newton of the Armoury, trouser maker Salvatore Ambrosi, and Alan See, also of The Armoury.
The new length of pants, with wide cuffs, the better to show off footwear from Leather Soul!