Archive for the ‘History’ Category

Say 'boo' to summer sweats

June 3rd, 2016
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PHOTOS BY NADINE KAM / nkam@staradvertiser.com

A chilling ghost story is one way to keep your cool over the summer. This Meiji period (1868-1912) nagajuban, or under kimono, with the sumi ink ghost design, floating from a lantern, typical of the Obon season.

During Obon season, ancestral spirits are said to return for a brief visit, providing the perfect backdrop for ghost stories, and coincidentally, one way to cool down over the long hot summer.

That's because blood vessels on the skin's surface contract when we're frightened, reducing the flow of blood and lowering the skin's temperature, which is why a scary story literally gives some people the chills.

That's just one of the interesting details to absorb from the “No Sweat: How Textiles Help Beat the Heat” summer exhibition at the Honolulu Museum of Art.

The exhibition is an exploration into the ways different cultures dealt with hot climates in terms of clothing choices.

The principles that drove ancient people continue to steer development of technologically advanced fibers and designs. That is, figuring out how to reduce moisture typically retained by clothing, and providing ventilation, something for all Hawaii designers to consider in their fabric choices and engineering.

The full story is in the June 4 Star-Advertiser.
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The Honolulu Museum of Art is at 900 S. Beretania St. Call 532-8700. Open 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays, and 1 to 5 p.m. Sundays through Sept. 18 (closed July 4). Admission is $10 for adults, free for members and ages 17 and younger; also free 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Family Sundays the third Sunday of the month; the first Wednesday each month; and for Hawaii residents with I.D. on Restoration Day July 31.

Hitoe, women's unlined summer kimono employed a gauze weave for physical cooling, and water and garden motifs for a psychological cooling effect.

A bamboo waistcoat from 19th century China was an undergarment that served as a barrier between skin and clothing, providing ventilation and preventing fabric's heat-inducing sticking and clinging.

Ramie fibers are still used in Korea for their absorbent and quick-drying qualities. Ramie cloth in Korea is often referred to as "wings of a dragonfly" because of their transparency, providing ventilation in humid weather.

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her fashion coverage in print in Saturday's Today section. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on Twitter, Instagram and Rebel Mouse.

Louis Vuitton Ala Moana introduces 'Haute Maroquinerie'

April 23rd, 2014
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Ala MoanaThe newly renovated Louis Vuitton store at Ala Moana Center made room for its Haute Maroquinerie bespoke handbags for those who want a hand in creating their own signature purse.David Franzen Photography

Louis Vuitton reopened its expanded Ala Moana Center store with an early morning blessing April 19, before the center opened.

The expansion allowed the arrival of LV's Haute Maroquinerie, with a special salon for afficionados of made-to-order leather goods, one of the few select LV boutiques offering the bespoke service worldwide.

The one-of-a-kind handbag personalization service offers clients the ability to select one of five shapes in two different sizes, with a palette of 26 colors in eight different types of leather, as well as hardware.

Ala MoanaThe store's new look.

lvdivaNadine Kam photos
This little pom, Diva, loves being toted around in LV.

lvpupDiva's human, Noelle Sasaki.

lv leathersThose seeking a personalized  'Haute Maroquinerie' handbag start by selecting one of five designs, available in two sizes, then has a choice of 26 colors and eight different styles of leather.

lvhardwareThen comes hardware selection.

The shapes available are:

>> Noé: Designed by Gaston Louis Vuitton in 1932 to carry champagne bottles.
>> Triangle: Created in 1934 to carry knit works.
>> Lock-it: A 1958 design that owes its name to the expression used when protecting ones’ precious belongings.
>> Milaris: One of two contemporary designs.
>> Neo Steamer: Trapeze-shaped original introduced in 2011.

Louis Vuitton's relationship with Hawaii dates back 32 years, when Ala Moana Center became home to its first freestanding store in Hawaii.

Valérie Chapoulaud-Floquet, President and Chief Executive Officer of Louis Vuitton Americas, noted, “Louis Vuitton has accompanied travelers to Hawaii since early 1880. Hawaii is one of our most vibrant markets with sophisticated global clients who appreciate the value of luxury.”

To commemorate the grand reopening, LV partnered with Hawaiian artist, dancer and cultural expert Sig Zane, to design artwork for the store’s vestibules. The hand-carved ilima design—honoring the history of the area—is accompanied by Zane's original Hawaiian chant, "Ka Lanakila Pio," expressing a love story between Louis Vuitton and Hawaii. The poem is written on kapa that resembles the Louis Vuitton damier pattern, with Hawaiian symbols of spear, pathway, waves and mountains.

In addition to women's leather goods, ready-to-wear, shoes, accessories and jewelry, the expanded store carries a greater assortment of menwear and accessories.

For the opening, Louis Vuitton also created a limited edition Monogram Idylle pendant necklace, in 18k white gold necklace with sapphire pendant.

lvzaneFrom left, Brandy Serikaku, Kuhao Zane and Sig Zane in one of the vestibules bearing the artwork they created in collaboration with Paris artisans.

blessingThe store is blessed before employees and guests enter.

lvblessEmployees hands-on involvement with blessing the store.

lvmenPicture This! Photography
Part of the new menswear department.

lvfashThe reoriented staircase to the store's second floor. (more…)

JLH marks 90th anniversary with Jazz Era soirée

April 16th, 2014
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jlhholdFrom left, Kristina Belcourt, Bridgett Relphorde, who made her own cigarette holder from rolled cardboard that she blinged, and Michelle Richardson.Nadine Kam photos

Feathers, fringe, flappers and lace were in abundance and "Giggle juice" flowed at the Sheraton Waikiki Hotel & Resort April 12, when the Junior League of Honolulu went back to its Jazz Era roots—founded in 1923—to mark its 90th anniversary with a luncheon/fashion show featuring garments from Tori Richard's Spring 2014 women's collection.

In addition to the fun, glitz and glamour of the 1920s "Great Gatsby"-themed celebration, there was also some serious work going on as the organization pledged to give $90,000 to Oahu nonprofits over the next three years through its 90th Anniversary Community Fund. $45,000 will be awarded this year. The balance of the fund will be distributed over the next two years. Members also recognized past recipients of its annual Laura N. Dowsett Award, and honored JLH's 2014 recipient Cheryl Hetherington.

The award is named after Laura Nott Dowsett, a founding member of JLH and its president from 1933 to 1934. Hetherington, a civic leader and longtime Junior League member, received the award that was created in 1982, to recognize a sustaining member who personifies the spirit of voluntarism, the value of specialized training, the effectiveness of advocacy and the qualities of leadership developed in the JLH.

CherylHetheringtonHetherington served as JLH president from 2002 to 2003 and has raised money for a number of nonprofits including Friends of the Children’s Justice Center of O‘ahu (25th Anniversary), Honolulu Academy of Art (Kama‘aina Christmas), The Contemporary Museum (ConTempo) and JLH. Before dedicating her skills to community service, Hetherington practiced law as a solo practitioner from 1979 to 1994, taking on many pro bono cases in Family Court. A member of the Hawaii Bar Association, she served for five years with the Hearings Committee of the Office of Disciplinary Counsel for the State of Hawaii.

In recognition of the group's annual "Sacs in the City" fundraiser, more than 10 high-end handbags were auctioned to help support JLH's community programs.

jlhfashThe event was also highlighted by an informal fashion show featuring the Tori Richard Spring 2014 women's collection.

jlhFrom left, Becky Harrison, JLH president-elect Penelope Paik Thune and Ina Chang.

jlhpinstripeFrom left, JJ Dentel, Jeri Duncan in mobster pinstripes, and Tiffany Sterbin.

jlhjenJennifer and Justin Dotson.

jlh2Jessica Yamauchi, left, and JLH president Deborah Zysman.

jlh20sA photographic display dating from the 1920s to the present, played tribute to the Junior League founders and early members. Today, we tend to have a costumey view of 1920s fashion, but this is more typical summer dress.

jlhjJanice Choate-Zavakos looks her 1920s best in white and lace down to her stockings.

laceI did white lace as well, snapping a selfie outside my house, with Lynn Murray Sien's "Naked Pearl" rope necklace and Whiting & Davis mesh purse. I have at least three 1920s Mandalian mesh-and-enamel purses that I used to use, but today, they're too small to fit such 21st century necessities as phone and car keys. (more…)

First look: H&M Waikiki

March 25th, 2014
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h&mA display at the entrance to the new H&M Waikiki, which opens Thursday. Not all these pieces are in stock, but they will be.Nadine Kam photos

After more than a decade's wait, H&M will open its first Hawaii location at noon March 27 in the Waikiki Business Plaza, with 31,000 square feet of fashion on two floors.

During a media preview this morning, we got a peek at the women's and men's styles that have won the brand fans all around the world.

As H&M enthusiast Malia Chung told me earlier, "I appreciate how H&M brings high fashion and runway style pieces to an affordable price point for us fashion fiends on a budget!
And the designer collaborations they're doing are amazing too."

It's been a long wait for those of us in Hawaii, and it was explained to me while working on last week's story about the grand opening, that they always seek the best location in any city they go into, and they were willing to wait for the central Kalakaua Avenue location.

The first 500 shoppers in line on the 27th will receive a limited-edition tote bag featuring the most popular images of local surf photographers Mike Coots, Sarah Lee and Zak Noyle, as well as an "Access to Fashion" pass valued from $10 to $500 to shop the store.

If you do happen to nab that $500 gift, that money will go a long way. There will be grand opening items priced at $5, and prices generally run about $19.95 to $34.95. Some of the higher-end items are about $129 to $169 and those are toward the left of the store's Kalakaua entrance.

New items arrive daily, and because there's such an emphasis on personal style here, they say that we shouldn't see others wearing the same things we choose. All I can say is that when someone pulled out a pair of banana-printed pants for me, that was her taste and I just said, "Oh, no."

We didn't get a chance to shop today, but I look forward to the opp soon!

A couple of videos showing the key women's looks:

http://youtu.be/JlJFXVNgJS4

http://youtu.be/bI768oyt71U

hmpineThis pineapple design beach coverup is $5, one of the grand opening specials.

hmlooksThese are some of the pricier looks.

hmspringMore spring dressing.

hmboots

hmaccessAn abundance of accessories are a stylist's dream.

hmmen2There's as much of an array of looks for men as for women.

hmmen1

Uniqlo-'IOLANI collaboration line due in May

January 22nd, 2014
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uniqlo:iolaniUniqlo designers used prints and artwork from 'IOLANI Sportwear's archives, dating as far back as the 1960s, for the collaboration 'IOLANI Hawaiian Classics Collection, due in May. Many prints were scaled down to appeal to Uniqlo fans around the globe. The collection won over the fashion press during an earlier preview in Paris.Uniqlo photos

Uniqlo may not be coming to Hawaii any time soon, but a piece of Hawaii will be traveling to 1,200 Uniqlo stores around the globe this summer thanks to a collaboration between longtime kama'aina company 'IOLANI Sportswear, and the Tokyo-based apparel giant.

The announcement was made earlier  today during a news conference from the JFW-International Fashion Fair’s Hawaii Pavilion in Tokyo, where ‘IOLANI is one of several local clothing companies participating in a DBEDT-sponsored initiative promoting Hawaii designers abroad.

The 2014 spring/summer ‘IOLANI Hawaiian Classics line will be available in Uniqlo stores beginning in May. Because there is no Uniqlo store locally, online shopping will have to suffice for fans of both brands.

The collection will include men’s shirts, shorts and T-shirts and women’s tunics, dresses, shorts, handbags, skirts and T-shirts, all inspired by ‘IOLANI’s print archives, with design, fabric and production by Uniqlo.

The rest of the story will appear in tomorrow's Star-Advertiser.

uniqlo:ioAmong the Uniqlo collaboration 'IOLANI Hawaiian Classics pieces will be men's steteco pants, cooling long underwear intended to wear under trousers or yukata for added comfort during humid summer months. Uniqlo is bringing them back, creating contrast when worn under shorts.